Following up on brake bleeding session...
Good news is that there's more than enough brake pads, and apparently rotors left. Bad news is that the wear sensor (part #34351179819) is broken (best guess is that whoever changed the pads broke the new sensor and decided to cover it up) and needs to be replaced. Pity - it's a $5 part, and labor involved in checking it and installing a new one is much more than that.
Other bad news is that the ABS sensor cable (part #34521154044) seems to be going (aging insulation is falling apart) and will have to be replaced soon.
Still need to take a look at the rear brakes - don't remember seeing the wear sensor there, either.
Tuesday, May 26, 2009
Thursday, May 21, 2009
RMeuropean delivery: wow, I'm impressed
Ordered two Pitman arms (part #33321126476) from rmeuropean.com at 13:30 local time yesterday. At 11:30 local time today the package was at the door.
That's the shortest shipment time ever. Wow.
That's the shortest shipment time ever. Wow.
Oh Noes! The Clutch Is Gone... And Back
...now have to figure out what's the cause, and how it is related to yesterday's brake bleeding session.
Master cylinder is the main suspect until the morning sun comes.
UPDATE: Just air in the system, nothing more. Bled the hell out of it while identifying the issue - it's not immediately obvious where the intake hose is, and it's easy to suck the air into the clutch system unless you're watching the fluid level in the main reservoir. For the reference, a safe volume from the maximum level to the level you have to stop at is about 8 fl oz, or 200ml.
Before you set out to bleed the clutch, you may want to check if you need to replace the bleeder screw (part #21521116360), and whether the dust cap (part #21521102908) is in place - will save you some grief.
It is possible to use a vacuum bleeder to bleed the clutch, even though this is not a recommended way - you will most probably have to unscrew the bleeder screw completely (there will not be a massive leak), wrap it into teflon tape and screw it back (thanks to mooseheadm5 for the advice) - otherwise you'll be sucking air through the bleeder screw thread.
While you're there, you might just as well take off the slave cylinder and push the air out of it. Don't have the pedal all the way up when you're installing the slave cylinder back, you won't be able to overcome the resistance of the clutch release spring and put the nuts back.
Master cylinder is the main suspect until the morning sun comes.
UPDATE: Just air in the system, nothing more. Bled the hell out of it while identifying the issue - it's not immediately obvious where the intake hose is, and it's easy to suck the air into the clutch system unless you're watching the fluid level in the main reservoir. For the reference, a safe volume from the maximum level to the level you have to stop at is about 8 fl oz, or 200ml.
Before you set out to bleed the clutch, you may want to check if you need to replace the bleeder screw (part #21521116360), and whether the dust cap (part #21521102908) is in place - will save you some grief.
It is possible to use a vacuum bleeder to bleed the clutch, even though this is not a recommended way - you will most probably have to unscrew the bleeder screw completely (there will not be a massive leak), wrap it into teflon tape and screw it back (thanks to mooseheadm5 for the advice) - otherwise you'll be sucking air through the bleeder screw thread.
While you're there, you might just as well take off the slave cylinder and push the air out of it. Don't have the pedal all the way up when you're installing the slave cylinder back, you won't be able to overcome the resistance of the clutch release spring and put the nuts back.
Tuesday, May 19, 2009
Wonderful Discoveries of Brake Bleeding
When you bleed the brakes for the first time on the car you've just bought, don't be surprised if the brake pad wear sensor cable is neatly tucked under the bleeder valve cap tie. All of it. Including the sensor. Apparently, no participation in the actual process of measuring the brake pad wear was deemed necessary by the last person that changed the brake pads on the car.
Makes me desperately want to check the brake pads and rotors' thickness, despite seller's passionate assurances that they've been *just* replaced.
Makes me desperately want to check the brake pads and rotors' thickness, despite seller's passionate assurances that they've been *just* replaced.
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