Fun Facts: Chemical Compatibility

Standard issue surgical gloves are transparent for mineral spirits. If a job you're doing is your first time, or you're just tired and forgetful or simply careless and are not listening to what your skin is telling you, you may end up with chemical burns. Not fun.

By the way, WD-40 is 50% mineral spirits as well.

Drive Axles Are Back

One hiccup down the road - almost got a heart attack when I saw the pit. Then I realized that it's been there since June 1987, exhaled and kept going. The rest was uneventful, except for a little chemical surprise.

PARTS

4 repair kits (part #33219067906), $60.

MATERIALS

Odorless mineral spirits.

RESULT



NOTES

Before you start disassembly, you might want to carefully examine mounting bolt (part #07119919620) heads for damage - and that's really difficult to do while they are still on the car, for they are probably buried under a healthy layer of baked oil and dirt. Might save yourself some aggravation and order them upfront - the cost, even for the complete set ($25-$50 plus delivery), is marginally comparable to the effort to repeat the procedure, or to the aggravation of having a bolt head stripped while trying to torque it in.

Oh, and it goes without saying that you'd want to see if you also need to replace the diff gaskets while the drive axles are off, but that significantly extends the maintenance window - so we had to skip on it this time.

The Bucket List

UPDATE

All the stuff below is irrelevant, superseded by the fact that the car's been totaled and is being parted. Nevertheless, it's been left in to give some more information about the state of the car (most of it survived).

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Like the blog subtitle says, we're cleaning up 22 years of neglect. This is the current list of found and fixed problems, somewhat prioritized. Updated as the work progresses. Prices, if listed, reflect the actual amount paid and are not necessary optimal - sometimes, time considerations were more important than cost savings.

DONE

• Replace hood mechanism
• Replace broken turn signals lens (part #63131386611)
• Flush coolant system, 2009/04/16 @203,500mi
  
• Replace diff fluid with known good (Mobil 1 LS 75W-90), 2009/04/16 @203,500mi
  
• Replace engine oil with known good (Mobil 1 10W-40 High Mileage), 2009/04/23 @203,787mi
• Replace accelerator cable, 2009/04/24
• Remove ugly "got bmw?" sticker
• Replace CV joint boots (torn), repair kit bellows (part #33219067906), 2009/04/24
  
• Replace tires (bought the car with three 200/60R15 and one 195/65R15, with surprisingly little effect on stability - the car must've been very well engineered in order to withstand such abuse) - Yokohama AVS ES100, 2009/05/01 @204,205mi
• Flush brake system - 2009/05/19 @204,875
• Flush clutch - 2009/05/23
• Apply a temporary fix for a broken exhaust pipe hanger - 2009/05/31
• Permanently fix broken off exhaust pipe hangers (welded back) - 2009/06/05
• Replace Pitman arms (part #33321126476) - 2009/06/20 @205,911
• Replace diff mount (original part #33171125290, replacement part #33171129786) - 2009/09/29 @210,960
• Replace engine oil with known good (Mobil 1 10W-40 High Mileage), 2009/10/11 @211,684mi
• Replace right low beam insert (part #63121373061), 2009/10/22
  

IN PROGRESS

• Nothing
  

PENDING

• Replace cruise control cable
• Replace all differential gaskets (leaking), gasket set (part #33101210518)
• Replace front brake pad wear sensor (part #34351179819)
  
• Check rear brake pad and rotor thickness
  
• Verify that brake calipers are not sticking, lubricate and replace if necessary
  
• Identify the cause of power steering fluid leakage and fix it
• Identify the cause of transmission leakage and fix it
• Replace transmission fluid with known good
  
• Fix the driver door lock (see if the part #51219061341 is what's needed to fix it)
  
• Replace worn out front suspension parts
• Check rear suspension and see what needs to be done
• Replace spark plugs
• Clean the distributor
• Check ignition wiring, replace if necessary
  
• Replace Service Interval Board
• Bring Check Control back to life
  
• Pass emissions test (unlikely)
• Replace exhaust system (part #18121178263)
• Replace exhaust pipe catalyst (part #11769059153)
• Verify that the oil pan gasket (part #11131315085) is not leaking
• Verify that the oil level sensor is not leaking
  
• Keep an eye on right rear view mirror - may be falling out
• Keep an eye on ABS sensors (part #34521154044, 34521155709 and 34521155710) - cable insulation is aging and falling apart
  

NICE TO HAVE

• Replace broken oil filter housing (part #11421266372)
  
• Replace stupid fake carbon fiber black-and-white roundels with proper blue-and-white ones
  
• Replace driver window "up" button (works intermittently) (part #61311381205)
• Replace sunroof deflector mechanism
• Replace broken fog light (preferably both, for the other one is also worn) (part #63121468224)
• Implement the wimpy brake light fix
• Fix all dents, repaint
• Replace all mouldings that need replacement
• Replace all seals that need replacement
• Replace broken interior panels
• Replace headliner
  
• Look under sheepskins, fight gag reflex, replace upholstery
• Replace dashboard (part #51451872376)
• Replace aftermarket audio system speakers with disgusting sound with something decent - or rip the aftermarket audio system out completely - who needs to listen to anything while driving E28?
• Rip out stupid (allegedly Ferrari) horn that sits in the middle of the engine compartment and interferes with engine access; verify that OEM horn is operational and connect it instead
• Find a suitable cover for the place where no longer necessary front bumper registration plate (part #51181855952) was
• Replace squealing AC Blower (part #64111354618 or 64111386369)
• Replace trunk lid torsion springs (part #51241919481 and #51241919482), it appears that the spoiler is not an original part and the trunk lid doesn't pop up by itself - or, the springs are just too old
  

Things to watch for: Throttle Control Cables

Symptoms: aberrations in throttle response and cruise control behavior.
Alternate symptoms: zip ties holding control cables to bracket 65711369784.

Parts to replace:

• Cruise Control Cable (#65711370164), $26.43 at the dealer (BMWCCA discount included)
• Accelerator Cable (#35411153001), $27.29
• Rubber grommet (part #35411152331), optional
• Bearing (see below), optional
  

In case someone forgot, here's the main reason NEVER to use zip ties in the car: in a very few years, they become brittle and shatter, sometimes upon a slightest touch. The hotter the climate, the faster it happens.

ACCELERATOR CABLE


Described in sufficient details in E28 Bentley Manual (17:16). A few details beyond that:

• You might want to replace the grommet (part #35411152331), for it is also rubber and old. In case you forget, it's not that difficult to do afterwards, too.
• Follow Bentley Manual instructions to release that grommet literally - it looks like it'll come out easier in the other direction, it won't.
  
• In order to get the old cable out and new in, you'll have to unravel a bunch of wires and hoses it is in the middle of. Get some ties to but it back together (no zip ties, remember?)
  
• While doing that, take a look at water tank expansion tank to breather pipe hose (part #17121119294 - mine fell apart as I touched it.
• Take a look at the bearing (part #13541747519, but yours may be different) - it is plastic, and most probably has become brittle by now.

CRUISE CONTROL CABLE

Coming soon

What does "shiftless" mean?

Which answer is correct?

• Automobile lacking third (clutch) pedal, automatic transmission
  
• Lacking or characterized by lack of ambition or initiative
  

See for yourself...

Nice parallel, isn't it?

Close Encounters Of TRX Kind

If you don't know what the Google search on bmw trx wheels going to turn up, you haven't done your homework. I thought I did.

Then I had to face them in real life - like I mentioned before, three tires were 200/60R15, the fourth was 195/65R15, and the spare was 200/60VR390. The question I asked myself (being, as usual, overly paranoid) was - how the hell do I know if the wheels with R15 tires on them are indeed R15 wheels?

Two answers:

First, gotta look at the markings on those wheels. Sometimes, you have to take the cover off, sometimes not:



Second, compare them against known BMW wheel styles (either look it up in a catalog or search if that link is broken).

And, of course, nothing works better than a asking the question on mye28.com - just make sure you do your homework first. Sometimes, if you're really thorough, you won't even have to go there :)

Buying a used car...

... is like waking up with somebody after a smashing party last night: yesterday, the brain seemed to function just fine, but you just look at those crooked teeth, flaking makeup and dirt under fingernails!!!