Saturday, March 5, 2011
Post Mortem
Pictures of parts for sale will be posted at http://www.flickr.com/photos/e28diaries/ and removed as parts are sold.
Friday, May 21, 2010
Tuesday, May 11, 2010
Wednesday, April 14, 2010
R.I.P.
The car was totaled in an accident (no injuries, no fatalities, in case you're wondering).
It would've been a waste of perfectly good parts to just scrap the car, so the decision was made to buy it out and part it.
The process in its early stages, all updates will be posted right here. For now, let's just say that the right front quarter (part #41351961672 is demolished together with the steering, oil pan is gone, one wheel out of four survived. The rest is to be defined.
Following is the part list (live document, updated as the work progresses). If the part is not listed, it hasn't been taken off yet. Note, the spreadsheet is scrollable in both directions. Full screen version is here. Shipping origin zip code is 85254.
If you want parts, leave a comment with the part number and contact information. Comments are moderated, your identity will not be disclosed.
It would've been a waste of perfectly good parts to just scrap the car, so the decision was made to buy it out and part it.
The process in its early stages, all updates will be posted right here. For now, let's just say that the right front quarter (part #41351961672 is demolished together with the steering, oil pan is gone, one wheel out of four survived. The rest is to be defined.
UPDATE: The parting process is over, the car is in piles of parts on the floor now. They still need to be identified and cataloged - but mostly, this is your usual set of parts - frame damage made the car a wreck, but parts are mostly fine.Exact list of original parts for this specific car (obtained by VIN lookup) can be found at realoem.com.
Following is the part list (live document, updated as the work progresses). If the part is not listed, it hasn't been taken off yet. Note, the spreadsheet is scrollable in both directions. Full screen version is here. Shipping origin zip code is 85254.
If you want parts, leave a comment with the part number and contact information. Comments are moderated, your identity will not be disclosed.
Saturday, September 26, 2009
Knock-knock
Who's there?
Diff mount (thanks to wise folks at MyE28.com for helping to pinpoint the problem).
Symptoms: heavy sharp knocking sound when sharply dropping off the gas, or accelerating in reverse.
Cause: rubber in the diff mount (part #33171125290) has split apart.
Advice given: don't replace it with the same part (around $200 today), replace it with part #33171129786 (around $80 today), rationale being, quote:
If you replace your diff mount three times in the same time it takes for the 535 one to break, you break even. Chances are you won't be doing that. In fact, I'd be very surprised if that was in fact the case. -- ck"It is interesting, though, that the part that failed seems to be that very part, not the original #33171125290. If that's the case (will know for sure when the part arrives), it's time to start counting.
Thursday, September 10, 2009
Cheap[er] Oil
Mobil 1 High Mileage engine oil:
Just don't go changing your oil at Walmart - though if you're reading this, you're probably safe.
Funny, Walmart worker I asked about how many quarts are in a gallon thinks there are five. Figures.
- Froogle: about $7.99 + shipping per quart
- Checkers: $6.99 + tax per quart
- Walmart Super Center: about $20 + tax per gallon.
Just don't go changing your oil at Walmart - though if you're reading this, you're probably safe.
Funny, Walmart worker I asked about how many quarts are in a gallon thinks there are five. Figures.
Saturday, June 20, 2009
REPLACE FASTENERS!!!
Lesson learned the hard way (one, two, three):
Latter practically means doing the job twice and in some places that means risking weakening parts that are extremely expensive or troublesome to replace (trailing arms, engine covers, head and body), so just bite the bullet and buy extra fasteners and grommets. They may not be cheap, but at least you won't be caught unprepared with your car non-driveable, or have to do the job twice.
- Either plan on replacing fasteners and grommets that are in your way;
- Or remove and inspect them before ordering replacement parts.
Latter practically means doing the job twice and in some places that means risking weakening parts that are extremely expensive or troublesome to replace (trailing arms, engine covers, head and body), so just bite the bullet and buy extra fasteners and grommets. They may not be cheap, but at least you won't be caught unprepared with your car non-driveable, or have to do the job twice.
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